Guides ·Essentials

M-Pesa is the payment system, and you should get on it

Mobile money dominates Nairobi to a degree that surprises visitors. Market traders, matatu conductors, boda riders, restaurants, supermarkets and even parking meters accept M-Pesa, Safaricom's mobile money service, via a till number or paybill. Getting set up takes 20 minutes: buy a Safaricom SIM at the airport or any shop for around KSh100 with your passport, register M-Pesa at an agent, and load cash at any of the tens of thousands of green M-Pesa kiosks. Deposits are free; sending and withdrawal fees are tiered, typically KSh30 to KSh110 depending on amount.

Data is remarkably cheap — around KSh1,000 buys a generous monthly bundle, and coverage across Nairobi is strong. Having a local number also solves the ride-hail problem, since drivers call rather than message. If you refuse to bother with a SIM, you can survive on cash and cards, but you will pay more in taxis, struggle at markets and find yourself hunting ATMs. For a stay longer than three days, M-Pesa is the single highest-value bit of admin you can do on arrival.

Cash, cards and ATMs

Kenyan shilling notes run KSh50, KSh100, KSh200, KSh500 and KSh1,000, with coins below that. Break KSh1,000 notes whenever you can — matatu conductors, market stalls and boda riders rarely have change, and a KSh1,000 note for a KSh150 fare causes real friction. ATMs are everywhere in Westlands, Kilimani, the CBD and every mall; withdrawal limits are typically KSh20,000 to KSh40,000 per transaction and local bank fees run KSh200 to KSh400 on top of whatever your home bank charges.

Cards work at hotels, malls, supermarkets like Naivas and Carrefour, and mid-range restaurants, but not at markets, matatus, small kiosks or most street food. Visa is more widely accepted than Mastercard; American Express is rare. Avoid changing money on the street. Use bureaux de change in Westlands or the CBD, which typically beat both hotel desks and the airport by a noticeable margin. Carry roughly KSh3,000 to KSh5,000 in cash for a normal day and keep the rest on the phone.

What things actually cost

A daily budget backpacker in Nairobi can run on KSh3,500 to KSh5,000: a hostel or budget CBD room at KSh2,000 to KSh3,000, matatu fares of KSh200, and street food and local restaurant meals at KSh600 to KSh900. A mid-range traveller spends KSh10,000 to KSh18,000: a Kilimani or Westlands apartment at KSh6,000 to KSh9,000, ride-hail around KSh1,500, restaurant meals at KSh2,500 to KSh4,000, plus one attraction. Comfortable travel with a Karen lodge, private driver and daily activities lands at KSh25,000 to KSh45,000.

Individual anchors are worth memorising. Nyama choma at a roadside joint: KSh700 to KSh1,200 a kilo of goat. A plate of ugali with sukuma wiki and beef stew: KSh250 to KSh450. A Tusker beer: KSh250 in a local bar, KSh450 to KSh600 in Westlands. A flat white in a Kilimani café: KSh350 to KSh500. Bottled water 500ml: KSh50 to KSh80 in a shop, KSh200 in a hotel. Cinema ticket at Westgate or Village Market: KSh700 to KSh1,200.

Attraction and activity pricing

Kenya operates dual pricing at national parks and museums — residents pay less than non-residents, and this is normal rather than a scam. Nairobi National Park entry for a non-resident adult is around KSh5,200 per day, plus a vehicle fee of about KSh300. The Nairobi National Museum on Museum Hill charges non-residents roughly KSh1,500, with the adjacent Snake Park bundled or separate depending on the ticket. The Giraffe Centre in Lang’ata is around KSh1,500 for non-resident adults, and the David Sheldrick elephant orphanage requires a booked slot with a donation of roughly KSh1,500.

Karura Forest is one of the city's best-value tickets at around KSh600 for non-residents, giving you 50km of trails, a waterfall and a bamboo grove. The Nairobi Railway Museum near the central station is under KSh1,000. Karen Blixen Museum on Karen Road sits around KSh1,200 for non-residents. Guided walking tours of the CBD or Kibera typically run KSh2,500 to KSh5,000. Budget roughly KSh8,000 to KSh12,000 for a full attraction-heavy day including transport and lunch.

Tipping: what is expected and what is not

Tipping in Nairobi is appreciated but not rigidly expected, and the rates are modest. In restaurants, 5 to 10 per cent is generous; many bills already include a service charge of around 10 per cent, in which case rounding up is fine. Check the bill before adding. In casual local eateries and nyama choma joints, leaving KSh50 to KSh100 is normal. Bartenders in Westlands rarely expect anything beyond rounding up. Cafés often have a tip jar; KSh50 is fine.

Elsewhere: hotel porters KSh100 to KSh200 a bag, housekeeping KSh200 a day if service has been good, ride-hail drivers not expected but rounding up is kind on a long trip. Safari and day-trip guides are the exception — KSh1,000 to KSh2,000 per person per day is the customary range for a good private guide, and it matters to them. Petrol station attendants who clean your windscreen appreciate KSh50. Do not tip in a way that is showy; discretion is the local norm.

Scams, overcharging and how to avoid them

The most common visitor overcharge is not a scam but simple price flexibility. Maasai market stalls, curio shops and unmetered taxis quote a foreigner price. At Maasai markets, opening asks are often three to four times the settle price — negotiating down to 30 or 40 per cent of the first quote is normal and expected, and should be friendly rather than combative. Agree the fare before getting into any non-app taxi. Ask restaurant prices if a menu is missing, especially at roadside nyama choma spots where meat is priced by weight.

Genuine scams to watch: people approaching with a story about a stranded relative or a charity requiring cash; anyone offering to change money on the street; and unofficial guides at museum or park gates who take a fee then hand you to the official one. Never hand your phone to a stranger. At ATMs, use machines inside bank branches or malls, cover the keypad, and decline help. Report anything serious to the tourist-facing police desks, and keep a photo of your passport separate from the document itself.

Frequently asked questions

What people ask before they set off on this one.

Rooms worth pairing with this guide.

Kilimani Four Points By Sheraton Nairobi Hurlingham

4.5/5 KSh24457/ night

Gigiri Kwetu Nairobi Curio Collection By Hilton

4.6/5 KSh27692/ night

Westlands Dusit Princess Hotel Residences Nairobi

4.7/5 KSh17728/ night

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